In Svalbard, nature reigns supreme, requiring flexible itineraries. That's what makes it so exciting; no two days or trips are the same. In this blog post, we invite you to join us on an expedition day with M/S Quest, where we share some memorable moments from our recent trip. The ice-white spring showed its very best side, offering amazing Zodiac cruises and unforgettable animal encounters. You also get a unique insight into life on board, which is a big part of the adventure.
At 07.15, we are awakened by the cheerful voice of the expedition leader on the loudspeaker. He announces that we have a marvellous day to look forward to and that breakfast will be served soon. The sun's rays sneak through the gap in the blackout curtains. Since it is May and we are in the realm of the midnight sun, where it has been light all night, the sleep mask has helped keep it dark. When the curtains open, a stunning view of snow-capped mountain peaks against a clear blue sky unfolds, like a painting. It is almost hard to comprehend that we are here – in a world that appears calm and silent on the surface, yet hides an unpredictable wilderness far from human civilization.
After an energising breakfast buffet, it's time for the first excursion of the day. Several guests gather expectantly around a whiteboard with a handwritten schedule. It shows the plan for the day. As the route of the trip is very much depending on weather and ice conditions, this is updated daily. Today, the bird cliff Alkefjellet is first on the agenda. While the crew and guides launch the five Zodiacs, we prepare ourselves by dressing in layers. In Norway, it is mandatory to wear a flotation suit for excursions with Zodiacs, so soon we are all gathered in red overalls, ready to head down the ramp and into the rubber boats. The overalls are warm, which is pleasant when you're going to sit outside for several hours.
We approach Alkefjellet with the Zodiacs. The majestic basalt cliff is visible from a distance, and the closer we get, the clearer the sound of many, many birds. Brünnich's guillemots. We also see a large gathering of them floating on the surface of the water or sailing on small ice floes, waiting for the cliff to become more snow-free so they can find a ledge to nest on. The sheer number of these black and white birds is overwhelming. And this is just the beginning. During the summer, hundreds of thousands of nesting pairs crowd the narrow rocky shelves. Our guide tells us that they lay their single egg on a surface smaller than 10 cm. To prevent the egg from rolling over the edge, it is cone-shaped. The symbiosis between the wild animals and nature is fascinating to say the least, as if everything is finely tuned to the millimeter.
We have been told that Arctic foxes are often seen around the bird cliff, but usually later in the season. But just as we are about to leave the bird cliff, we spot one. It stands watching from a snow-covered little rock, in grey-white fur, as a symbol of the ongoing change from spring-winter to summer.
After this fantastic start to the day, the mood is on top, and when asked if we want to continue on a longer tour with the Zodiac, the answer is a unanimous YES!
We continue for another hour along the ice edge, cruising between ice floes that are slowly beginning to free themselves from the fast ice and just enjoying the views and the sun reflecting against all the white.
Once back on board the M/S Quest, there is a short time for changing and some time in the cabin for those who wish. Then, it's time for lunch, a tasty buffet as usual.
Shortly after lunch, the expedition leader's voice is heard over the loudspeakers. The ever-scouting guides have seen a polar bear sleeping on the ice. Out on deck, a pair of binoculars has been set up for us all to look through. It takes some time before we can locate a small yellow tussock far away on the seemingly endless ice expanses. It requires a trained eye to spot it.
After a while, the polar bear wakes up and starts to wander across the ice, to everyone's delight. We watch the polar bear from a distance for a while and then get an announcement over the loudspeakers that it is time for the afternoon Zodiac cruise. Half an hour later, once again dressed in the red suits, we fill the five Zodiacs one by one.
Quietly and slowly, at a proper distance, we glide along the edge of the ice where we can see the polar bear moving parallel to us. Our guide has determined that it is a relatively young female polar bear. She breezes along and occasionally bounds across the ice. She grabs some seaweed, which she pulls up from the sea and plays with, like a child. Every now and then she splashes in the water and then climbs up on the ice to dry off again. Finally, she walks to the edge of the ice, sits down and poses. A reverent silence has fallen over the Zodiacs. We're probably all thinking the same thing: we're certainly not alone on this planet. Here we are just visitors.
We return to the ship, and amidst the euphoria that has set in, a polar plunge is offered. The conditions could not be better. We have had the most fantastic day; the sun is shining and the backdrop of snow-capped mountains and ice floes sailing on mirror-like water is unbeatable. The crew does their best to pump us up with music and cheers. It happens in the spur of the moment, and suddenly there is no turning back. 'Refreshing' is an understatement, but the feeling afterwards makes it all worthwhile.
Before dinner, it's time for a daily re-cap. This is a short review of what we have seen during the day and time for some conversation and reflection.
Dinner is announced as usual with a warm welcome over the loudspeakers. In the dining room, a three-course dinner is served with a choice of meat, fish and vegetarian options.
After dinner, there are free activities on board. Many choose to sit in the panoramic lounge with a glass of wine, a book or a pair of binoculars. Others stay out on deck, enjoying just being here and now, and the sun that will not set until the end of August.
Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.
