In this blog post, PolarQuest's Maria Malmborg shares her personal and insightful experiences from 2023's final Svalbard expedition on board M/S Stockholm. She describes a magical morning surrounded by snow and fog, exciting Zodiac cruises in the winter landscape, and amazing encounters with Arctic wildlife such as walruses and seals.
We wake up to snowfall; it's the fourth day of our expedition and a thin mist lies over Raudfjorden where our ship M/S Stockholm has taken us during the night. The morning coffee is enjoyed in silence up on the bridge; we are all alone in the fjord, surrounded by white mountain peaks, without another ship in sight. I can't help but think that just a few days ago I was hastily drinking my coffee, navigating through the morning rush and traffic lights in Gothenburg – and now here I am, far away from the hustle and red lights of the city.
After a hearty breakfast, we slip into our overalls and get ready for a Zodiac cruise in the winter landscape where the morning's agenda is to explore Hamilton Bay, located in the western part of Raudfjorden. Nice little snowflakes are still falling as we stand on deck waiting for the Zodiac and although the visibility is a bit poor, we see various birds that have not yet flown south for the winter. I guess they too like to stay and enjoy a bit more of the calmness that Svalbard offers this time of year.
The Zodiac places itself alongside the ship and with a steady seaman's grip, I am on board - the water is calm and the puttering sound from the engine is the only thing heard as we smoothly glide between the ice floes. Quite soon, we're not so alone anymore but met by curious eyes as we approach a walrus resting on one of the ice floes. We also have the company of some seals that pop up and down in the water, but they're not so interested in us and don't stay long enough to pose for a picture. A flock of kittiwakes rests on one of the turquoise icebergs and a rumbling sound breaks the silence as we see a majestic glacier calving in the distance.
Everywhere there's something to see and experience, and I have to remind myself to stop looking through the camera lens and instead just let my eyes rest on the incredible nature that I have the opportunity to partake in. There is something special about getting a glimpse into the lives of these amazing animals, in the wilderness, where everything feels untouched and authentic.
When you're chugging around with the Zodiac among crystal-like ice floes and stately icebergs, scouting for wildlife, time disappears too quickly. Two and a half hours later, it's time to head back to the M/S Stockholm for lunch and we say goodbye to Raudfjorden, the icebergs, and the walruses for now. Despite a little snow flurry, the morning offered fantastic animal encounters in a magical environment and an incredibly dramatic September light.
Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.
