Finally, the propellers started to rotate, and we ascended through the thick cloud cover over Iceland. As we rose into the air, I was filled with both excitement and anticipation. What would we experience? Unexpectedly, the sun broke through the cloud bank, which suddenly dispersed, revealing our first iceberg, drifting alone in the blue sea. Colourful houses appeared as we caught our first glimpse of Kulusuk. We descended, the plane touched down, and the excitement grew for the amazing Arctic adventure that awaited us in East Greenland.
Icebergs – the raw power of nature. There's something about them that makes it impossible to look away. It's like staring into an open fire, filled with wonder. Each iceberg is unique, both in size and appearance. Sermilik Fjord, where we've been cruising for the past two days, is filled with icebergs the size of houses, which have drifted down from the Helheim Glacier at the far end of the fjord. They vary in shape: large, small, pointed, tabular – each with its own distinct character.
To be classified as an iceberg, it must be at least 15 meters high, and the larger ones can reach over 75 meters. During the winter, the entire fjord is covered by a 4-5 meter thick layer of ice, which cracks open, allowing the ice to drift out with the current.
September is truly a great time to be here; we are privileged to be able to venture deep into the beautiful fjord with our stable ship. We stand on deck, gazing out, letting our thoughts drift in wonder. Smiles adorn everyone's faces. The ship weaves its way between the icebergs, and there's nothing to do but enjoy the spectacle. No one wants to go inside. Is that iceberg really the biggest we've seen? Perhaps. But what’s that over there? We scan from one side to the other, not wanting to miss anything happening on either side of our ice-strengthened ship. I feel so small among these enormous icebergs! The sun beams down, making the sea and ice sparkle. ‘Surreal,’ someone says, and I can’t help but agree – it’s truly a ‘pinch me’ moment.
On the first day of the journey, we were asked what being on an expedition really means. 'Expecting the unexpected,' someone said, and another mentioned 'flexibility.' When we woke up this morning, we truly understood the meaning of expedition. During the night, there had been an 'iceberg factory explosion,' as our Canadian captain put it. The glacier we had anchored at, at a safe distance, had calved, completely transforming the landscape compared to how it looked when we went to bed. Icebergs bobbed in the water, more and more ice forming around us during breakfast, drifting away from the glacier with the current. According to the adventurous plans of our guides, today we were supposed to make a landing, climbing along a glacier to enjoy the view from there. Most likely, we are among the few to have ever set foot here. We were ready – adventure was calling.
The cold hit us as we stood facing the glacier, and in the other direction, a breathtaking view opened up with scattered glaciers and enormous mountain ranges. Is this the grandeur of Greenland and Sermilik? To be in a place where few others have been – a true privilege. Silence, stillness, and the magical wilderness surround us. Thunderous rumbles echo through the fjord; something is happening with the glacier across the bay. We stand by what is called a 'dead' glacier, no longer reaching the sea. We can touch it and feel the cold through our skin. A quiet moment settles in, sitting with the glacier's cold caress on our necks and the warmth of the sun on our faces. The view is dazzling. We are truly in the heart of our grand experience.
In these waters, we are adventurers! We explore uncharted areas and make landings that few have experienced. I feel overwhelmed by the greatness and power of nature; here in Greenland, it’s more palpable than ever. As the old saying goes: 'When you have travelled everywhere, there is always Greenland...'
