"A dreamy place that will stay in our hearts forever." This is how PolarQuest's Carina Svensson describes the magical Sermilik Fjord in eastern Greenland, where she recently participated in an expedition with a group of PolarQuest travellers and guides. In this blog post, she summarizes the first days of the trip.
Day 1 – Wednesday 21 August
Our journey began in style in Reykjavik, with a luxurious ride in a Mercedes minibus equipped with a panoramic roof that made us feel like we were gliding through the landscape. Filled with anticipation and in good company, we took off on time and were greeted by an incredibly beautiful approach to Kulusuk. From the small airport, we walked to our waiting Zodiac, and after a short ride, we boarded our ship, where we were greeted by our guides, Nilla and Henry. The chef had prepared a delicious three-course dinner and a glass of champagne. The day ended with a colourful sunset.
Day 2 – Thursday 22 August
In the morning, we skillfully navigated around the southern side of Ammassalik Island and entered the magnificent Sermilik Fjord. In the afternoon, we made a landing in Johan Petersen Fjord, where we enjoyed a fantastic hike, with stranded icebergs scattered along the shoreline. When we returned on board, Captain Kim took us on a magical journey deep into Johan Petersen Fjord (known as Qeertartivatsaap Kangertiva in Greenlandic), where we anchored for the night. The sauna was ready, and both Captain Kim and Karolina took a refreshing dip in the mirror-like sea, while the sun slowly set over the horizon – a day to remember!
Day 3 – Friday 23 August
The day began with a spectacular view of the mighty glacier front, surrounded by icebergs of all sizes gently floating by. After breakfast, we set off on a challenging hike to the top of Immikkeertiajik, where we were rewarded with a panoramic view over the glacier. After lunch, we continued sailing further north into the majestic Sermilik Fjord and anchored for the night in the midst of a world of icebergs – a dreamy place that will forever remain in our hearts.
Day 4 – Saturday 24 August
In the morning, we paid a visit to an archaeological site on the western shores of Sermilik fjord. The disused village of Umiattuartivit offered a selection of three sod house remains, which gave us a wonderful insight into how the Inuit lived around a hundred years ago. After lunch, we made our way deeper into Sermilik, aiming for the mystical Helheim Glacier. There were cheers on board as we sailed into the mouth of Sermilik Fjord, with Helheim Glacier to our left, Fenris Glacier at the center, and Midgard Glacier to our right. At 66°15', we reached our farthest north, turned around, and continued our journey south with joy in our hearts. The day ended with the ship dropping anchor just around the corner from tomorrow’s destination, the small settlement of Tiniteqilaaq.
Day 5 – Sunday 25 August
After breakfast, we paid a visit to Tiniteqilaq, where we landed and visited the settlement situated right above the ice-packed Sermilik fjord. The eerie silence on a Sunday added to the incredible view over the fjord and its icebergs. During lunch we passed through the narrow and scenic Ikaasatsiaq strait on our way to Kuummiit. The steep mountains with their majestic glaciers offered an incredible view during lunch. Finally, the time had come to see Kuummiut up close, a sight we had previously glimpsed from afar. Some of us had beautiful encounters with the locals and captured unforgettable moments on camera. We hiked up to a plateau for a magnificent view! After another delicious lunch, we sailed through the Ikassaq Passage and anchored for the night outside Ikatoq village. By popular demand, Nilla shared photos and stories from her time in East Greenland. We slept soundly until Henry knocked on our doors to view the magical Northern Lights.
Day 6 – Monday 26 August
Today, we set out to explore the former American base, Bluie East Two, at the historic site of Ikateq. It was fascinating to learn that there were once over 200,000 barrels there. Now, it resembles something out of a Mad Max series. Sailing through Ammassalik Fjord, we kept our eyes peeled for whales and were rewarded with sightings of both humpback and minke whales. We anchored for the night in King Oscar's Harbor just outside Tasiilaq, where Allan and Exy, who had impressed us with their culinary skills throughout the journey, surprised us with a BBQ in the sunshine – a delight for everyone!
