Swedens polar specialist since 1999 +46 31-333 17 30 info@polar-quest.com
© Eli Gunnemark

Full moon magic

At 9 AM, we dropped the Zodiacs and cruised towards Monaco and Seliger glaciers. The combined length of these glacier fronts measures almost 5 km! The constant roar and rumbling of calvings filled the bay as we cruised around, enjoying the sun.

© Eli Gunnemark

We were fortunate enough to witness two massive calvings, where entire melting channels collapsed, and the glacier front from top to bottom. A bearded seal popped up to investigate us a little closer as well.

After spending over 3 hours, it was time to return to M/S Sjøveien. While we were taxiing from Monaco Glacier to the second landing site of the day, you could enjoy a nice Jacuzzi on the outer deck. It is a unique experience to have a wood-heated tub in an environment without a single tree! It's not every day you can sit in a tub, have a drink, and smell the bonfire from the stove while looking at glacier fronts.

We spent the afternoon at a large trapper's cabin called Mushamna. This massive log cabin was built in 1987 by a Norwegian trapper, Kjell Reidar Hovelsrud, but it was sold to the Governor in 1997.

We walked around, observing all the birds and vegetation; there were still some flowers here! The scent of moss and vegetation was a welcoming sensation.

We embarked on a long hike to a high point, providing us with a beautiful overview of Woodfjorden. Dinner was enjoyed in the sunshine, anchored at Mushamna, and we ended the evening with another observation of a bearded seal.

© Eli Gunnemark

The next morning, in contrast to the previous morning, we woke up to the fog hugging the windows of M/S Sjøveien. But like magic, it lifted at 7 AM sharp. Shortly after, we observed two polar bears splashing and playing around in the water, eating sea kelp, play-fighting, and diving, so all we could see were fluffy paws in the air. Such an incredible and rare experience! Eventually, we ended up locating 4 polar bears!

As soon as the polar bears left the sea and walked on land, we lowered the Zodiacs. We had an amazing time watching them feed on a whale carcass (minke) on the beach.

We headed to Torellneset for the second landing, a place with walruses. We expected somewhat the same amount of walruses as we had in Smeerenburg, but when we arrived, we could count and estimate that there were between 250-300 of them! As we approached the haul-out, many of them approached closer from the water, checking us out. It was clear most of these were cows with younger ones!

But it didn't stop there: After just a couple of minutes, a fluffy Arctic fox pup arrived! And a couple of minutes after that, 3 more! So we had an incredible 2 hours on land with the sunset, 300 active and noisy walruses, and 4 fox pups playing around.

In the evening, we went to a special place we knew many of the guests wanted to visit - Bråsvellbreen. A massive icecap with a glacier front stretching a mind-blowing 160km! It is also known for its waterfalls. We had perfect light and calm seas, even a full moon, and as the cherry on top - 2 humpback whales swimming around the ship. A day of pure Svalbard Magic that left even the guides speechless.

  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
  • © Eli Gunnemark
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Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.

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