The sea is calm, and majestic mountains surround us on three sides of the ship. The grand silence is so powerful it nearly takes your breath away. The polar night is not as I had imagined – it reveals itself in black and white, but also in a palette of magical colours.
It is early December, and in recent days, the snow has settled like a soft blanket over the landscape, enhancing its dreamy character.
M/S Stockholm slowly cruises through an almost surreal scene, where the colours shift between golden yellow, deep blue, orange, and pink. Even in its characteristic black-and-white form, the landscape is magical – like stepping into a film.
We stand out on deck, all dressed in the red-and-black flotation suits provided onboard. They have proven excellent for keeping warm, even when standing still for long periods. And here, in this enchanting landscape, one can stand for hours – simply taking it all in.
The polar night has set in, but that doesn’t mean it’s dark around the clock. For about four hours each day, the landscape is bathed in the so-called twilight, which reveals itself in a spectrum of colours. Every moment is precious.
Even the evening is far from pitch black. Despite the new moon, which means a total absence of moonlight that otherwise serves as a natural night lamp, the stars glitter against the dark sky. We can clearly make out the outlines of the Big Dipper and other constellations for those who have the knowledge to recognise them. M/S Stockholm is docked at Øksfjord, a small village and fishing settlement with around 500 inhabitants. We stroll along picturesque streets lined with houses decorated for Christmas.
Soon, we reach a narrow path leading into the forest, where we put on the snowshoes we’ve carried with us. The snow crunches underfoot as the shoes, resembling small skis, press it down. Only the light from our guide’s headlamp, the reflective snow, and the glittering stars illuminate our way. Eventually, we arrive at a lake, covered in ice and snow, surrounded by majestic mountains. It’s quiet, still – and incredibly beautiful.
We wait for a while, sipping hot chocolate, and as if on cue, it appears: the majestic Northern Lights, dancing above the mountain peaks. Magical is truly the word!
When we step out onto the deck after breakfast the next day, we are greeted, to everyone's delight, by a sky shimmering in pink. It’s the final piece needed to complete the colour palette. The weather is also calm enough to launch the Zodiacs. Once the traces of the night’s snowfall have been cleared, we each make our way down the ramp and into the sturdy Zodiacs.
It’s a strange and almost surreal experience to glide through the fjord in a light reminiscent of the setting sun – even though it’s not yet lunchtime. It doesn’t take long before we spot the first fins and backs of creatures far larger than what’s visible above the surface. Orcas!
For hours, we slowly cruise along, admiring these incredible creatures. At least 50 fill the bay we’re in – both small and large. They ride the waves, play, and slap their tail fins against the water’s surface. Every now and then, one or two appear right next to the Zodiac, eliciting cheers of delight. In the background, M/S Stockholm comes into view, a true beauty perfectly framed by the dramatic landscape.
We stay out as long as we can, until darkness begins to descend once more and it’s time to return to the ship.
